Tuesday, 21 February 2012

Chanel's Collections

"There have been several duchesses of Westminster, but only one Coco Chanel" 
No one can replace her significant influence on fashion around the world. 


1916 La Pauvrete de luxe -- first real collection
She started the revolution in women fashion, to express liberation through her design. She took the emphasis away from waist and made padding, frippery and folly redundant.
Luxuriant evening fabric made into an unusual bathing dress shape 
 1925/26 The duke of Westminster collection
It's an era of sisal changes and emblematic attitude. Chanel emphasized in the shape of body, with simple line of clothing. The total image from head to toe was important for her: the garconne haircut, and the co-respondent shoes with the mourn feminine clothing 

The mannish tweedy tailoring 
cardigan jackets and pleated skirts became ubiquitous 
 1932/33 Shooting stars
Coco Chanel became the "beau mode" and wooed by Hollywood. 

Rivera chic chevron stripe
Princess Dimitri of Russia, wedding dress with a circle or orange blossom at neck

small shoulder, tight arm, white color bow and cuffs  on a nippy black suit with mannish hat

1937/37 Frivolity -- A serious business
A period of lyrical and romanticism and economic revival. Chanel started using "frou frou"



didn't use the bodice for form, but relied on small weight, soft boning and postures


 1954 The come back collection
tension between constructions and texture, bubbly nylon seersuckers in bright navy blue plus blown roses worn with pearl

1964 Darling of the fashion world
"Chanel tweeds, correct hang to the jacket, short skirt with a cloche like slide over hip, lots of action at the hem and couldn't be better."
-- Vogue
She has become the American's favorite 
contradiction formal day costume in dressed stripe 

classic cardiac suit with grosgrain bow, pearls and gilt chain belt

youthful shape of 60s suit, schoolgirl and blend of tweed and checks

 1978 The first ready to wear collection
last collection before she passed away. 
Fashion for her is quality, artistry, one to one relationship, intimate and trust. Chanel is the ultimate fashion fantasy
wide shoulders indicating 80s women empowerment 

little black dress, white color ribbon bow and cinch waist belt with bejeweled clasp and showgirl shoes

1983 Recoco Chanel
It was controversy when Karl Lagerfeld took over Chanel, but the brand has kept the brand DNA, the legacy by mademoiselle chanel 
New garconne breton hat, sailor trousers with monogrammed gilt buttons either side and a long rope of beads for essential ambiguity 
silhouette hourglass curve and sensuous beaded evening gloves
 1993 Street couture
The supermodel sult. The collections became flashier and sexier. There is also an exaggeration of accessories. For commercial reason mainly.
most detailed mermaid suit, with matching gauntlets and gold sequin trimmed stole and sparkle encrusted hair jewelry

The deep V back, fur cuffs and slim skirt redolent of the late 30s, whereas the textural  contrasts are wildly postmodern


 1998 New and Zen
Continued dressed up sexiness. but started the departure into deconstruction and turning toward the east. 

Naomi Cmpbell with Chanel 2005 bag aloft, demonstrated its body-frindly shape
 Of course we can't forget the sweetness of smell, "Chanel 5"


Her unclosed neckless, following the body

The signature camelia  


As she said, "I don't do fashion, I am fashion." Her style is a presentation of herself, reflection of her experience and lifestyle




























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